efore those dishes start washing themselves, in addition to the new appliance, you are going to need a few things: fittings, like properly sized brass elbows to connect the dishwasher inlet to the copper supply line as well as compression fittings for attaching the supply under the sink to the angle stop. Your home repair and maintenance tool box should always have some Teflon tape for wrapping the threads of water spigots and other threaded pipe ends.
Medium sized wire nuts are always good around the house, and probably come with the new appliance. You’ll want to have hose clamps for attaching the drain hose, and some plumbers strap to secure that hose.
A few simple tools and a couple of specialty items are all you’ll need to complete this install. Again, your repair tool box should have a variety of screwdrivers, pliers and an adjustable wrench. If you don’t have wire strippers, make the investment, you’ll thank me later!
A power cordless drill will make the job easier. You’ll need a 2 inch hole cutter as well. If using copper tubing, you’ll want to have bending springs and a tube cutter (close quarter is preferred). Rubber or plastic tubing? You should be fine without investing in the pipe tools.
Connect your water supply line to the angle stop, or the “faucet” under the sink. Run your supply through the cabinet wall hole you drill there. If your electrical is coming from under the sink, it’s advisable to run through it’s own hole.
With the 2 lines now into empty appliance cavity, measure how much line you’ll need to connect to the water inlet and the electrical connection box. Don’t hesitate to gently tip the dishwasher forward to gain better access to the bottom of the appliance. From this position you can ensure the inlet fitting and electrical connections are secured. If you’re using copper tubing, leave a few inches past the inlet location, use a curving spring to bend the tube to the fitting.
Open the electrical box and run in your 3 wires: white, black and green with about 3/8 of an inch stripped. Using wire nuts, connect the 3 feed wires to their corresponding appliance lines. Replace the metal box cover, and ensure you’ve affixed the electrical feed line to the back wall.
Attach the drain line at the dishwasher side; secure with a hose clamp. Snake this line through at least a 2 inch hole into the under sink area. Clamp the end of the drain line to the inlet of your garbage disposal, or the sink’s tail piece and be sure to tighten the hose clamp to prevent leakage of discarded dish water.
Push the dishwasher all the way until the closed front is flush with the other cabinet doors. Using a small “torpedo” style level, make sure the dishwasher is level by adjusting one or both of the feet in front (they usually screw up and down.) With the dishwasher in place and level, insert small screws into the built in tabs just under the counter creating a stable connection between the top of the dishwasher and the underside of the counter.
Turn on your water supplies and check fittings. Give them some time, as a build up in pressure sometimes works out leaks. When you are certain all is dry, plug in or make your electrical connection and run a test cycle. Continue to check your water feed and intakes as well as the drain hose clamps on the appliance and under your sink.
Finally, if your model has a kick plate, insert it into place, tighten the install screws, and enjoy your new dishwasher. Take pride in the expert installation job and be happy with your water and energy savings.